Tutorial – The Welt/Jetted pocket

Ok, I have been asked about doing some tutorials. I have wanted to do some and the most asked is about pockets. Pockets for most who sew can seem really daunting. I admit when I made my wedding waistcoats I didn’t add pockets because I didn’t understand the instructions. I Googled it but still was not sure, hence no pockets!
I’m not going to cover everything I am sure but for anyone who sews menswear pockets feature in most patterns.

So todays tutorial is the welt pocket, or jetted pocket. It is quite a simple procedure but can seem overly complicated. 
Here we go (Note: I have used different materials for the parts to make lear and Red thread so you can see)

Fabric with position of pocket marked. (6″ opening that is normally called the slash line on a pattern). (If your material cannot be marked by pen/chalk then mark using a basting stitch.)

2 Welts/Jets cut 1″ longer than the slash (Green) and 2 pocket linings the same width as the welts (white)
Fold each welt/jet lengthwise and press (If you are not yet pressing things as you sew this is the time to move your iron and board to your sewing space! Trust me!)
On the right side, place each welt/jet with open sides along the slash line. Ensure they are centred. Pin and Baste
Transfer the marks for the end of the slash line to the welts
Place the pocket lining on top of the welts/jets. Mark the end lines from the welts to the pocket linings as above.
Stitch 1/4 inch from the marked end lines to secure both welts and linings. Either tie or use backstitch to secure stitching. Remove basting stitch from earlier
Now flip over to wrong side. Mark a centre line between the stitch lines and mark the ends
Mark 1/4 inch in from ends of the stitching (This is how far you will slash). Mark a triangle to end of stitches
Cut along slash line from inner mark to inner mark. Then cut diagonally to stitches at both ends through the fabric. (Don’t cut the welts/jets or pocket linings, just the main fabric (the black fabric in my tutorial)
Showing the cutout triangle at one end. Fold both triangles over and press.
Now turn back to right side and tuck everything through the slash. Ensure the welts go right through and end up flat above the triangle you cut earlier. Both linings should end up together pointing down!
Press! (scissors shows you have made a pocket!)
Fold each fabric side over and you will see 2 pocket linings, the welts and the small triangle.
Now stitch together. (Both linings, welts and catching the triangle. continue round the linings to the other end (Backstitch both ends)
Thats it! Press and you have a welt/jetted pocket. 
Ok I didn’t spend a lot of time on this and my stitching isn’t even etc. but I hope you will understand how easy it really is. It has to be better than instructional pictures like this!

I have not included any interfacing but this will be directed by your pattern. Hopefully this tutorial will give you a good idea of the welt/jet pocket and hopefully you will give it a go?
If you have any comments or suggestions please let me know
Happy sewing!

1 Comment

  1. Hi Jamie!
    Thanks! This is one of the GOOD tutorials on welt pockets!

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