Linen summer jacket tutorial. Part 1 the back and vent.

Well after the shirt tutorial I did here, I was asked if I could show one of my Jackets being made. I’m not sure what the weather is like where you are but here in the UK it has been lovely. I mean properly warm and sunny for the last few weeks! So with the warm weather and summer certainly on the way, I decided I should make a new summer jacket so what better than to show how to make a Linen jacket for the tutorial.

I purchased 2.5m of 100% pure Linen and 0.5m of nice light blue flower print poplin for the trim (pocket linings, welts and under collar). I also got 2m of light blue lining (sort of Wedgewood blue I guess).

I shall follow the pattern instructions (mostly) to make this easier to follow for the reader. This is the Burda pattern I shall use for this tutorial, 6813 and follow style A but possibly with 2 buttons.

After washing and drying the linen (washed at 60 degrees and pressed flat) I cut out the pattern pieces: First two back panels (note the 2 larger ‘flap pieces’ that will make the rear vent)

Now trim the left back panel vent flap where marked so it is approximately half the width of the right (note the photo shows the material wrong sides up, so the left is on the right!)

Now right sides together, sew back seam finishing at lower mark (about 1 inch below top of vent flaps)

On the right back (side with longer vent flap) cut across tight to last stitch. ONLY cut right back!

Now press seams open until you get to the cut you just made then fold the right flap onto the left flap.

Now fold the right vent back over itself to meet the seam line (the side of the cut you did earlier. Press well. At this point I would normally bias bind the seams but I’ve decided to fully line the jacket rather than the pattern which is for a half lined jacket  – I hate half lining something!

Working from the right side stitch as marked on the pattern at the top of the vent catching both left and right. Stitch at a ‘jaunty’ angle to the seam. I always use the triple stitch setting for clarity. Again make sure everything is well pressed.

The pattern called for interfacing to be used on the vents but I omitted this. I used a little iron on hemming tape to just hold the vent folds without adding bulk. I normally topstitch my seams on jackets but as this is a light summer garment I didn’t. I thought the extra topstitching might make the jacket look a little ‘heavy’.  Measure your hem allowance and double it. mark this on the back vent and finally pop a little stitch by hand across the vent slit just above the mark you just made. This will keep your vent in place whilst you construct the rest of the garment.

So that’s it! Back panels cut, stitched and a vent placed. Easy enough I hear you cry….

Well in the next post I shall be tackling the front panels with jetted, flap pockets so watch this space…….

Happy sewing

3 Comments

  1. Thanks Jamie. I'm looking forward to more work on this jacket. I am hoping it inspires me to work on my husband's jacket!

  2. What is the blue lining? Is it a cotton? I'm thinking regular lining material would defeat the purpose of a linen jacket

    1. Author

      Hi Ann. Yes it was a very lightweight cotton. As you say putting normal lining would be a bit silly. Its lovely and light as well as being cool.

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