The ‘Guild’ Jacket reveal

So following on from my last post on ‘workwear’ fashion I have been busy designing and making. So here I present to you my first iteration of the ‘Guild’ jacket.

Based around the French Chore Jacket, or Bleu de Travail, I drafted this pattern to be a little more tailored whilst retaining the traditional look.  I kept distinctive large patch pockets with double row topstitching. I also kept the inside right pocket where the stitching shows through to the right side of the jacket.

The side seams were tailored and nipped in slightly to lose the very baggy look of the original and I sculpted the back seam very gently to form a nice fit over the shoulders to the waist. Two piece sleeves give shape with a simple cuff to finish the arm but I think next time I will make the cuff an opening type.

I used flat felled seams throughout for strength but more for the aesthetic.

The collar is slightly shallower than the genuine article but again adds shape to the overall look and does not look ‘heavy’

Many original style jackets have the button placket made as a shirt would be but I decided to add a facing that extends around the neck. The facing and hem were bound in a contrasting binding.

The fabric was originally a very dark blue cotton drill but I wanted a different colour. So into the bath with some weak bleach. This ‘haphazard’ bleaching has left the fabric with a lovely worn look which I assume will only get better with age.

So views please. What do you think? This is a really nice easy sewing project, especially if you have never made a jacket before: No complicated techniques, no fancy linings or interfacing etc. I’m hoping, with a little refinement, to produce a pattern for this so please do give me feedback to help me.

Until next time………..Happy sewing

9 Comments

  1. Ah Ze Bleu de travail! My dad worn those. Nice redesign. I can recognise the original and the "haphazard' bleaching? Genius! Your work is so neat and precise

  2. I really like this and I think my husband would too. This would be a perfect SciFi convention jacket for him. Not too heavy, but with lots of pockets and style.

  3. Nicely done! This is definitely something that I would like to sew.

  4. Really nice jacket. I'd like one myself. As you ask for feedback I'd like the length to be longer and the lower pockets seem a little high. Other than that, it's great. I'd love the pattern.

  5. I think the dimensions are spot on. Might be a tad shorter in length than Bill Cunningham's, but I prefer it as it looks less 'smock' like. Great job!

  6. I'd love to know where you found the fabric. I'm having trouble finding menswear fabric (apart from shirting & wool suiting). Basics like drill, twill, gabardine, heavy linen.

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