Following on from my last post, we can finish off the jacket. The lining is checked thoroughly on the inside of the jacket to ensure it has been attached correctly. A slip stitch is used to secure the lining in place using a suitable colour thread. The lining can optionally be pick-stitched, along the edge to give a nice finish inside. What colour thread to use? (I’ve still not decided!)
The buttonholes in the sleeves have already been completed but we need some on the front of the jacket, (I will be writing a complete guide to buttonholes in the future). The buttonholes are completed by hand using silk buttonhole twist thread and silk gimp.
I chose to add a red coloured lapel buttonhole (to match the red cuff button) but herein lies a secret.
You will see two buttonholes on the lapel: Indeed a very stylish design feature……no not exactly. I finished the red buttonhole and carefully snipped the thread off and carefully snipped into the lapel fabric! Yes I made a mistake and cut into the fabric just above the red buttonhole! It was only a small snip but very difficult to repair without being visible. So that explains the second buttonhole. Yes we all make mistakes but this was a really silly one and will certainly take more care next time.
You will also notice the stitching around the lapel edge. This is the first time I’ve done this but have seen the detail on many jackets. It was made with silk thread and also added to the pocket flaps and top of breast welt pocket.
All the remaining basting thread was removed and the jacket given a press.
So how long did it take?
I didn’t actually time the make of the jacket but here is an estimate:
- Cutting out (inc. linings) 2hrs
- Making pockets 3hrs
- Making/attaching canvas interfacing 6hrs
- Attach lapels/collar 3hrs
- Attach sleeves 2hrs
- Finish off lining 2hrs
- Buttonholes 2hrs
So that’s 20 hours for the jacket alone but I guess there were a few more hours to add. Was it worth it? Yes definitely and it goes some way to show why a tailored jacket costs so much money.
The only thing I am not too happy about is the colour of the front buttons. I will look for some that match the sleeve buttons better but this is a small thing that is easily changed.
In the next post we start on the waistcoat and learn how to draft the pattern.
Until next time…….Happy Sewing!