The inside needs to be pretty

Posted on Posted in GuestBlog, Sewing

Hi everyone,

I am Simona and you’ll find me blogging at  Sewing Adventures in the Attick (yes, my sewing room is actually in the attic, well a nicely converted one). On my blog, I mostly ‘rant’ about the garments I make.

Simona's sewing roomI am really pleased to share with you my thoughts about the insides of my handmade projects. I am very pleased to have been invited by Jamie to contribute to this blog as part of his Insides Out initiative.

For me, the inside of my garments is as important as the outside. Very rarely you’ll find one of my projects that do not have a finished seam.  For me, an unfinished seam screams ‘sloppy’ and feels like I did not care enough about my makes to take the time to finish it. But, I do care about my makes, all the time I put into them and also the love that goes into them, just makes me put thought into how to finish my make to do me proud, even if I’ll be the only one seeing the inside of my makes.

There are so many ways for finishing the insides of garments that sometimes it is a shame not to try some of them. My most prefered method of finishing seams is using the overlocker/serger, especially if I want something made fast ( and I like to see results fast). I like to use contrast thread as a signature of mine, however, sometimes I feel lazy and just leave the thread already on the machine. I tend to use the same colour thread for see-through fabrics.

seam finish -overlocker

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The overlocker/serger is my main tool in sewing up knits as you stitch together and finish the seam at the same time. This gives the inside a professional/ready to wear finish at the same time.

overlocked seam

Sometimes, if the fabric is quite light and I do not want to add bulk, I just turn the seam allowance towards the back and topstitch which makes a simple finish. It takes a little longer, but it is worth it.

cuba libre 16

Sometimes, I want to make my inside pop so I tend to do a Hong-Kong finish. This one takes a bit longer, it’s perfect to use some of that bias tape you spent ages on making from a fabric you absolutely love. It’s perfectly fine to use ready made bias a well. In the samples below I’ve used ready-made tape. functional Hong Kong seam

suit detail8

When making jeans or other other garments when the seams (or some of them need to be strong) I’ve made flat fell seams or variations of these. They need a bit of practice the first time once you get used to the technique, but otherwise simple to make. IMG_0014 I could be here writing about seam finishes for a long time. But these are ones I tend to use in my project to make them pretty on the inside as well.  However, the inside is not just about the seam finishes, but also about the facings or linings. I am not a big fan of facings, and wherever possible I replace the facings with bias finishes. Personally, I get a more professional result by using bias tape on the necklines. IMG_4557

There are times when I get a bit carried away with shortening skirts and if I hem them using a proper hem allowance they are too short to wear, so I use bias tape to finish off the hem like I did recently with my Miette skirt by Tilly and the Buttons.

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If I do have to use facings, I tend to raid my leftover fabric and use fun fabric for these, they do not even have to match the outer fabric. IMG_4538

None of my projects is truly finished until I add my own labels, which I had specially designed and printed on ribbon to add in (they were a bit pricey but totally worth it). I have two designs, a regular one and a folding one which sometimes I add to the right side of the garment (usually sports stuff or accessories)

IMG_7626IMG_7495I tend to take my time adding the lining into my projects because I don’t like to have any visible stitching, even if this means hand-stitching into place (and I am not a big fan of this, but I came to appreciate it due to the results it gives).

liningI sometimes spend time before actually constructing the garments to think about and plan how to finish my hems or when to add my labels in so that when the garment is ready it looks professional.  IMG_6771

Do you always finish your seams the same way or you like to play around with different finishes?

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