Following on from my last post it is time to make the jacket front for my Linen summer jacket. Sadly the summer sunshine seems to have vanished! I guess it will return?
There are 2 front pattern pieces and 2 side pieces plus 2 pockets to make in this walkthrough. Now on most jackets you place darts in the fronts, then slash the fronts for the pockets- the slash cutting through the dart you made – then attach sides and pockets. One problem with that method (especially with heavier materials) is that the pocket cutting through the dart makes a bit of a bulge on the pockets, where the dart is.
This pattern, however, is a bit better and uses front pieces that are pre-slashed and the dart brings everything together…..let me explain.
Right here is the right front piece cut, wrong sides up. You can see where I have marked the dart (left) and the pocket slash across from the dart.
Pocket slash made, notice it is a taper not a straight slash. The dart will sort that out in a min.
Now fold and pin your darts, stitch as marked and press.
That triangular slash for the pocket is now touching and forming a straight line. (Pop a few hand stitches across the slash to keep everything together)
Now side pieces. Pin and stitch, RST
Press the seam open and repeat for the other side. You are now ready to make the pockets!
I did a tutorial here
about welt/jetted pockets and this follows pretty much the same principle.
I removed my temporary stitches on the slash as the side piece will hold everything together. Using the pattern, mark the position of the full pocket opening width. (marked here in blue)
Place a pocket welt piece on the front (RST) with one long edge touching the slash. Mark the ends of the slash you measured in the last photo. Now place the second welt piece touching the other and mark the same. Mark 3/8 inch past each slash mark and draw a line 1/4 inch from the slash on both welts.
Now stitch along the marked line from the wider marks on each piece. I always count my stitches doing this as you don’t want a crooked pocket at the ends.
Now you need to cut through the front and side fabric to the markings you made earlier. THE INNER markings not the outer, end-of-stitch marks.
Flip the piece over and cut a triangle ONLY THE FABRIC! NOT THE WELT! The triangle should go from the end of the pocket slash to the last stitch, top and bottom and at each end.
Now fold the welts through the front (scissors just holding everything down in the picture).
Bring the welts together in the centre of the opening (where the tips of the little triangles you can see in the photo) and press well.
Turn piece back over and there you have a welt pocket! Easy hey?
Now to finish the pocket off. You will have 2 pocket lining pieces – I cut mine from the flower material – and you need to make 2 flaps. I don’t need to tell you how to make the flaps but they are made from 3 pieces – outer, interfacing and under. The under is in the flower material again.
Pin, stitch, clip seams and turn.
Top stitch around the flaps to finish. Now to put the pocket together… Turn the fronts so you are looking at the inside. Pin one pocket lining, RST and upside down – so the bottom of the pocket (curved bit) is towards the top. Line up the straight edge of the pocket lining with the lower edge of the pocket welt.
Now flip and stitch. Carefully along the join between the front and welt. (where the pencil is pointing)
Flip over again and press the lining down. RS should be facing up.
Nearly there…. Back to the right side, take a pocket flap and slip into the pocket hole between the welts. Pin. (The pocket flaps for this pattern are handed left and right, so be careful to put the correct flap on the correct side.)
From the inside – Place the second pocket lining on top of the flap and first pocket lining, pin. Now as you did earlier, from the front stitch along the welt joining line. THIS TIME STITCH THE TOP JOIN!
All that remains is to stitch the pocket linings together. From the inside, carefully fold the fronts at the end of the pockets. You should see the little triangle you cut earlier. Stitch around the pocket lining catching the little triangle at both sides.
I always like to pop a little bar tack at the end of the pocket welts.
And that’s it. 2 fronts and welt pockets.
Take the back and stitch the fronts to it at the shoulder seam RST and press open. We now have something that resembles a jacket!
Right, I hope all that made sense? Next time we will be tackling the collar, lapels and front facings. So until the next instalment………