#Blazerof2016 Collar and Lapels

If you have followed me this far with the #Blazerof2016 challenge you will know how things stand…If not look here (for the challenge), here (for part 1 of the make) and here (for the last update!)

Last time the jacket was ready for the facings, upper-collar and lapels so here we go….

You should have a jacket with under-collar attached

Next sew the front facings (RST) to the collar facing (If you are unsure as to how they go together match the seam markings and all will become clear!)

Attach the upper collar (as your pattern instructs) in this case exactly as you attached the under-collar to the jacket. Baste well, check, double check then sew in place.

Clip seams, trim and press open.
Next carefully pin the upper-collar to under-collar (RST). The Upper is cut slightly larger than the under so ease the fabric into place and match all edges and markings. Now Baste together!

Sew the collar all the way around. Sew from the seam where it joins the lapel around to the other lapel seam. Take your time!

Now pin the facing to the jacket lapel. Ensure the under and upper collar pieces are in line at the front.

There should be plenty of  ease in the facing (where my hand is in the picture) as if not the facing will pull on the jacket hem when finished. This pulls the hem up and inwards towards your body, looking horrible! If the facing is tight then move it a little to give the ease. It doesn’t matter if the seam edges don’t exactly line up!
Now baste the facing all the way around. Fold the facing and jacket seams back together over the collar. 
After checking, and double checking sew the facing to the jacket. Start where the collar stitch line ends and sew around to the hem (don’t sew the collar- pull it out of the way a little). Now clip all curved seams and turn the facings to the inside. Press well and enjoy a nice cup of tea!  Now it does look like a jacket!
You should hand sew the collar pieces together at this stage to stop the under and upper from moving. Sew a backstitch in the seam where they join the facing/jacket.
Now Baste the lapels to the jacket. It just stops everything getting messed up later!
Finally press the hem (finishing the curve at the front of the jacket) and Baste in place.
So next comes the sleeves! I will leave that until the next post but here is a quick ‘selfie’ of the fit. Happy so far
Until next time…..Happy sewing!

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