So following on from my last post on ‘workwear’ fashion I have been busy designing and making. So here I present to you my first iteration of the ‘Guild’ jacket.
Based around the French Chore Jacket, or Bleu de Travail, I drafted this pattern to be a little more tailored whilst retaining the traditional look. I kept distinctive large patch pockets with double row topstitching. I also kept the inside right pocket where the stitching shows through to the right side of the jacket.
The side seams were tailored and nipped in slightly to lose the very baggy look of the original and I sculpted the back seam very gently to form a nice fit over the shoulders to the waist. Two piece sleeves give shape with a simple cuff to finish the arm but I think next time I will make the cuff an opening type.
I used flat felled seams throughout for strength but more for the aesthetic.
The collar is slightly shallower than the genuine article but again adds shape to the overall look and does not look ‘heavy’
Many original style jackets have the button placket made as a shirt would be but I decided to add a facing that extends around the neck. The facing and hem were bound in a contrasting binding.
The fabric was originally a very dark blue cotton drill but I wanted a different colour. So into the bath with some weak bleach. This ‘haphazard’ bleaching has left the fabric with a lovely worn look which I assume will only get better with age.
So views please. What do you think? This is a really nice easy sewing project, especially if you have never made a jacket before: No complicated techniques, no fancy linings or interfacing etc. I’m hoping, with a little refinement, to produce a pattern for this so please do give me feedback to help me.
Until next time………..Happy sewing